Will: I am almost DESPERATELY jealous! Siena? You MUST take me along. One of the most magical evenings of my life occurred in Siena. Be sure to drink a bottle of San Geminiano in honour of all the bananafish who will miss you! You should add Mark Helprin's book about the war in Italy (I forget what it's called just now, but it's wonderful!--...if it isn't unfashionable to praise Helprin's work. I'm never sure whether it's declasse <accent aigue> to praise writers like Helprin, or Tom Robbins, or Jay McInerney--for each of whom I have a strange compulsion....) (I wouldn't dare even mention Armistead Maupin in this company....!) Cheers, Paul